The ghost of Le Gavroche is a heavy one to carry. For over 50 years, the basement at 43 Upper Brook Street was the high altar of French haute cuisine in London. When it closed in 2024, the culinary world held its breath. Now, the wait is officially over.
Bonheur by Matt Abé, which opened its doors in late 2025, hasn’t just stepped into those legendary shoes, it has redesigned them entirely. As of yesterday’s 2026 Michelin Guide Ceremony, it has already secured Two Michelin Stars, making it one of the fastest ascents in London’s dining history
The Vibe: From Bourgeois to "Aussie-Chic" Minimalism
Gone are the heavy green carpets and claret-colored chairs of the Roux era. In their place, Russell Sage Studio has created a space that feels like a warm, sun-drenched afternoon in Sydney translated for a Mayfair basement.
Think sandstone walls, ochre velvet banquettes, and horsehair wallpaper that catches the low, golden light. It’s “rich minimalism” expensive, but you don’t feel like you need to whisper. The addition of a disco-flecked playlist and a sleek Art Deco cocktail bar signals one thing clearly: this is not your grandfather’s fine dining.
The Food: Precision with a Smile
Matt Abé, the long-time lieutenant of Gordon Ramsay, has finally put his own name above the door. While his technical skill is surgically precise, the flavors at Bonheur (French for “happiness”) are remarkably soul-stirring.
The Signature: “Quiche Lorraine” Don’t expect a picnic staple. This is a delicate, impossibly light tartlet filled with Gruyère and smoked pork belly, cut through with a sharp, punchy vin jaune sauce. It’s a masterclass in elevating the humble.
The Showstopper: 125-Day Aged Cumbrian Blue Grey Sirloin Sourced exclusively from Lake District Farmers, this beef is dry-aged to the point of funkiness, then seared to a buttery pink. Served with a glass-like potato terrine and bone marrow bordelaise, it is arguably the best steak in London right now.
The Delicate Touch: Isle of Skye Scallops A bright, citrusy nod to Abé’s heritage, featuring yuzu kosho and clementine. It’s the kind of dish that cleanses the palate while still feeling like a luxury.
The Verdict: Is it worth it?
Mayfair isn’t short on luxury, but Bonheur feels different. It lacks the stuffiness of the “old guard” but maintains a level of service (led by GM Matthew Widdowson) that makes you feel like the most important person in the room.
The Price of Happiness: * 3-Course À La Carte: £165
5-Course “Journey” Menu: £195
7-Course “Dream” Tasting Menu: £225
Final Thought: If you can snag a seat at “Petit Bonheur” (the 6-seat chef’s table), do it. Seeing Abé work up close is like watching a conductor lead a silent orchestra. Bonheur isn’t just a replacement for Le Gavroche; it’s a vital new chapter for London’s food scene.
Essential Details
Address: 43 Upper Brook St, London W1K 7QR
Dress Code: Smart-casual (Leave the tie, keep the blazer)
Best For: Anniversary dinners or celebrating that big business deal.
Website: bonheurbymattabe.com
